Questions and Answers

Answer by WR: I've had great success without a bin. Right, I just dump in and stir occasionally. I do have to be careful not to put in weed seeds, Bermuda grass, virusy tomatoes since the pile doesn't get hot enough to kill those things. I've had good redworms in the pile that showed up on their own. It's important that the pile be in a good shade. Otherwise too much watering is required to keep it moist. I haven't had problems with critters or neighbors. In winter I sometimes rather ignore it, except for continually adding kitchen scraps. I water it with garden hose in spring,  fall, summer but it doesn't take a lot to keep it moist if I do it pretty regularly. I'm going to copy this to our compost questions group for their input. I know that JZ and others think a bin, or at least a pile with a good cover, is much better in our dry climate so I hope they will give you their point of view. I'm glad you plan to compost here. You might consider taking some of our free composting classes to learn more about composting in our climate. Best of luck! 

Answer by PB: The only thing I would add is that you have much better moisture control using this method if you cover the pile with an old piece of carpet, canvas or cardboard.

Response by Original Questioner: Thanks to you both for your replies! Interestingly, our only problem with our compost in CA was that it was often too wet. I wonder if the climate here might actually compliment our composting practice since we have an abundance of kitchen scraps as we eat so many vegetables and fruits. I think we'll start with a pile in shade and add a cover if necessary. And yes, I may take a class soon!

Answer by JH: Rachel, if you find this approach isn't satisfactory, check out our Composting in the Desert pamphlet.  It includes instructions for the wire bin method among other helpful tips.

Response by JZ:   Covering a pile not only helps retain moisture, but also decreases flying insects!   Keep up.

Answer by JZ: Other colleagues may respond to your question.  Here are my thoughts. You have a fine idea.  You have a few safe choices.

A pile of wood chips would be mostly carbon.  Moist wood chips alone, would decompose very slowly.  This would be a cold composting process.

The setup which you describe, up would, most likely not generate appreciable and sustainable heat  because it lacks a nitrogen source - greens. Spontaneous combustion may occur in a hot process composting set up if uniform moisture is not retained.  See an article about this via our website menu under Composting Info/Spontaneous Combustion.

Another possibility for you might be a Hugelkultur - type mound covered with soil or wood products buried in the soil. More info. on this method may be found with a google search. NMRC has training for large scale composters: Recycling and Composting Facility Operator Certification Courses - New Mexico Recycling Coalition

You are welcome to attend one of our basics classes.  See Activities/Classes on our website.

Hope that this is helpful.

Answer by RR: While I agree with John, one thing that might substantiate your fire concern is if a significant portion of your wood chips are from green trees (as opposed to dead trees).  There may be enough nitrogen in these green chips to mix with the dead chips and other debris to produce enough heat to be dangerous in as big an area as 20’ x 50’. If you don’t have training in large scale composting, as John referred to below, you could get into a dangerous situation.

I don’t know how much transportation you are willing to use, but the Soil Amendment Facility on Albuquerque’s west mesa, run by the Albuquerque Bernalillo County Water Utility Authority, will take your material at no cost.  I’ve included Joe Bailey’s (facility manager) email address here for your reference. He may know of some place closer to you that would be more convenient. He has also got some experience using Hugelkultur-type composting.

Also, Genevieve Morgan (email address above) runs the state’s large scale composting certification course, and she may know of some place close to you that might be of use.

Best of luck.

Answer by JZ: Great to hear about your interest. Vermicomposting is a fine idea. The composting recipe is universal, but composting management is influenced by climate.  At your elevation with cooler temps, your outdoor composting setup may be a bit slower in general,  especially in the winter months, but will perk up in the warmer months. My setups are at 5,300 ft. elevation – no problem.

I would encourage you to read about Desert Composting under Composting Info in our website menu.  Also see other informational selections there.

Get organized, then compost on.   Let us know if you have questions.

Answer by JZ: The composting recipe is universal so it would apply to Colorado. Your son may live in colder climate with more rainfall than we get. So evaporation of moisture would be less, but the general info in our brochure would be useful for him. He might get more specific useful composting info from his local County Extension Agent. This website might help him:  https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/246.pdf

You may certainly refer your son to our website,  nmcomposters.org

Answer by WR: I think much if not all of what you learned will be applicable to your son's family in Colorado, especially if he lives in one of the dryer areas of Colorado with a climate similar to Albuquerque (high desert).  Please do feel free to share our website with them:  nmcomposters.org. We have a "composting in the desert" brochure that might be helpful: https://www.nmcomposters.org/_files/ugd/9ed432_2efaef3fb0404de2b74b646940ed51ac.pdf

And this lists other web resources that we recommend:

https://www.nmcomposters.org/web-resources

If you want to let us know more specifically where your son's family lives we might be able to give more specific information.

Answer by JZ: Other colleagues may also respond to your question.  Here are my thoughts.

It is fine that you wish to share composting information with students.  From your description of leftovers, I’d say that  Bokashi bucket composting would be a useful choice for your situation. You may use any size bucket with a lid.  Bokashi mix is available on line or you could make some with students.

You  may enjoy our webpage about Bokashi, found under Composting Info on our website menu.

We often offer free bokashi classes.  See Classes under Activities on our website. You, students and staff are welcome to attend any of our classes.

For The second stage of the Bokashi process, the fermented material in the bucket would be turned into your garden soil, so you eventually have to select a soil spot on school property where you could dump.

#2. Have no specific recommendations about this.  You might try the group:  School Gardens — Albuquerque Public Schools

Hope that this is helpful.  Get back to us with any questions.   All the best.   Keep up.

Answer from JZ: Great to hear about your composting efforts.  Other master composter colleagues may also send you their comments. Here are my thoughts.

Insects are a natural part of the decomposition process. They are decomposers along with the microorganisms.

You did not mention if you have a composting manufactured or homemade bin.(?) Avoid adding: meat, fish, dairy products, lard, oils as these have odors which may attract critters. Keep the top of any composting setup covered with a drape, eg. plastic or cardboard this will help keep moisture in the bin and reduce flying insects.  See Desert Composting under Composting Info in our website main menu. A type of bin which may reduce some of critters issues is an elevated tumbler bin, they are usually quite snug, so they preserve moisture well and make it difficult for critters to bother the operation. See Tumber Bins under Composting Info. See various types of tumblers at amazon.com - of course they also picture other types of composting bins. Another snug bin may be made from a trash can - any size. Put a brick on the top of the bin lid to keep out predators. Holes in the bottom are dime-size or less.  See Homemade Bins under Composting Info. Then you would have, eventually finished compost at the bottom of bin, which you could use in garden.

Another option which would be insect / critter free is the Bokashi closed bucket method which could be done indoors in any size container: ‎docs.nmcomposters.org/bokashi-overview.pdf When fermentation in the bucket is complete, then the contents may be buried (18-24” deep) in garden soil or added to a compost bin. Then aerobic decomposition will complete the process in the soil or a bin. A large bucket, eg. 5 gallons or bigger could manage your families left overs.

Twice a year CABQ.gov/ solid waste does a collection of yard clippings and leftovers:Green Waste — City of Albuquerque You could bag some of your dry yard clippings, so that you are ready when pick up occurs.

Let us know if this has been helpful.   Best.

From original questioner: Thank you for your tips and recommendations. We do not have any sort of bin or container right now; my husband is just digging a hole in the ground (without a cover). We will look through some of your recommendations and see which works best for us. I’ll reach out if we have more questions.

The tips about the insects were helpful. May I also ask your opinion about cockroaches? There are many of them in our area of ABQ, especially in the summer. My husband does not agree with using routine pesticides to keep them at bay. On a summer night though, those critters are running around freely in the backyard, and many of them enter the house. Do you spray in your yard, or have other more natural ways to control them?

Answer from JZ: I cannot offer any specifics about managing cockroaches. I do not use anticockroach sprays. You might Google the issue to see if there are environmentally safe trapping methods available. My colleagues may have ideas too.  Standby. If you choose the Bokashi method there would be no roaches in that setup and your husband could keep burying the fermented bucket contents in your soil.

Answer from WR: A few years ago I bought a little mini greenhouse from Craig's List.  It had some dirt in it.  I put it on my back patio to clean it up.  When I poured out the dirt, millions of cockroaches streamed out.  Well, I might be exaggerating but it had to be hundreds.  It freaked me out because it was right next to my house and near my back door.  But, to my surprise, I never had an increase in cockroaches because of it. I occasionally see cockroaches in my cold compost pile but they no longer freak me out.  I know they are doing their part in nature to break down all that organic matter to make finished compost.  I don't think those cockroaches ever make it into my house, they have it too good in the compost pile. I used to come across a cockroach in my house maybe every week or so, some seasons worse than others.  The past couple of years I've hardly seen any.  One thing I started doing was putting out baits made by mixing butter, sugar, and borax (you can find various recipes on the web).  And I discovered Harris Famous Roach Tablets.  They kill using borax as well.  Borax seems to be a safe, non-toxic way of controlling roaches. https://smile.amazon.com/Harris-Roach-Tablets-Boric-Killer/dp/B001B1LI8A/ref=sr_1_4 Hope this will be a little bit useful.

From original questioner: Thanks for the tips on the cockroaches. Your mini greenhouse story sounds nerve wracking! Glad they didn’t increase numbers at your property.

I will give the Borax tabs a try. I’m sure I could put them somewhere away from my pets and children.

Answer by JZ: Nice tumbler. Some thoughts:
* When that barrel is full of moist organics it will be heavy to turn; you might consider larger / heavy duty wheels.
* Holes: go with 12, then test out the process. If you get too much evaporation then you could tape over a few holes.
* Do you plan on doing hot or cold composting?? Hot method is a high energy process so high oxygen requirements, so 12 holes may be just fine. The downward holes will always be covered with contents material, actually modifying air flow just a bit. Be sure to add bulking material: sticks, twigs, pine cones, etc. as you add moist organic material this will prevent compaction and allow for air flow throughout the contents.

Hope this is helpful. Other MC’s may respond to your question too. Let us know if you need further help.

Answer by JZ: Yes the Juwel bins & others which are similar have an opening at the bottom so that you may remove finished product.Once your barrel is full, maintain 50% moisture, keep top covered, then wait for the decomposition process to proceed. 

May take 12 months.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Answer by JZ: Your question will be received by a few of my colleagues who may also respond.  Here are my thoughts.

Great to hear that you are composting.  Yes, you are cold composting.

What went into the sack first will decompose first, so your finished product will be at the bottom of the sack. The finished product will look like chocolate cakes crumbs, should have a pleasant earthy scent.

So here is one way to get to the finished product at the bottom of bag.  Spread out a tarp, then dump the contents on the tarp. Separate out what has not decomposed, then put it back into the bag and continue the process. Finished compost may be added to your garden soil at any time. Another way is to get down to the bottom with a hand scoop and remove the finished portion.

Sure you could continue to add organics, especially after you have harvested that which is already decomposed, by doing that you make space for more additions.

This method, if moisture is maintained will produce a finished product in 6-12 months.  The process slows some in the cold months, but will pick up come spring. So, yes you should continue to fold the top as this will reduce evaporation of moisture from the bag.

Consider adding some coarse materials as you build in the bag – finger size sticks, twigs, pine cones. This will decrease compaction of organics and help with convective air flow. This is described on page 5 & 6 of this brochure: ‎docs.nmcomposters.org/composting-in-the-desert-2018.pdf

Hope that this is helpful.  Let us know if you have questions.

From original questioner: This is very helpful. I’m learning a lot since we moved here from CA 3 years ago, learning the climate here in relation to planting zones, composting, etc.

I had to turn it last weekend, it felt the side close to the bottom was dry. Maybe I will dump the contents next month and see.

Is it okay to add Blood Meal? Someone gave me a bag.

Answer by JZ: Blood meal would be a source of nitrogen (green) you could blend small amounts with browns eg. used paper products, brown leaves. Maintaining moisture in composting setup is the challenge here in the high desert.  Keep up.

Answer by WR: Hi Jeff, it could be that by the time you put the materials in the tumbler, the "greens" had turned "brown". Greens need to be pretty fresh. I think if you can find some fresh greens to add this will help. Perhaps you can visit your closest coffee shop a few times and ask for their leftover coffee grounds. (The Starbucks near me is nice about giving me theirs.) It might take quite a lot to get the process going. Certainly add all the kitchen scraps you can get your hands on. Here's a list of greens and browns.

You are correct in adding water. It needs to be moist, about like a wrung-out sponge.

Heat from the sun doesn't really help. You'd probably do better to put the composter in the shade, at least this time of year as it starts to warm up. This will keep it from drying out so quickly. I don't think you'll be able to get your compost to heat up inside your tumbler. To get a hot compost pile you need a very large pile...about 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet. The heat inside such a pile is not from the sun but from bacterial action inside the pile and from the insulating properties of such a big pile. So, what you are making is "cold compost". That is fine. It's perfectly good stuff but won't turn to compost as fast. (If there is a lot of weed seed or perennial weeds such as bind weed or bermuda grass in the compost, that might not totally decompose in a cold compost.) With a tumbler, since it's not going to get hot, you'd be better off to just add materials as you collect them, trying to keep a decent green/brown balance. Doesn't have to be exact. If it's slimy and smelly, add more browns. If it's just sitting there doing nothing, add more greens. In either case, keep stirring and keep moist but not over-moist. Don't worry if it is temporarily out of balance. You can always get it back into balance over time. We offer free composting classes here in Albuquerque. If you live here or nearby you might consider taking one of them. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.

Hope you won't be discouraged. Once you get the right balance, I think you'll find it's really fun and easy and rewarding to compost.

Answer by JZ: Here is my opinion:

1. Where do you live? Composting in the desert requires that we moderate air flow in a bin in order to decrease evaporation. You may have to tape over some of the holes in your tumbler.

2. If you are intending to do a "hot" composting batch method, then you need to increase the nitrogen in your mix. You could start with a mix that is 50%: 50% C:N or 60:40 or minimally 75:25. You should consider adding bulking materials: sticks, twigs, pine cones, corn cobs, corn stalk. Bulking will decrease compaction in the total mix in the tumbler as you need to maintain 50% moisture throughout the composting process.

3. See our recommendations for desert composting.

4. With a little bit of "tweaking" and practice your composting operation will be fine.

5. You are welcome to attend any of our free classes.

Answer by RR:  Your questions will be received by other master composter colleagues who may also respond. Here are my thoughts: I would not recommend a compost tumbler on a second floor porch facing south for several reasons: 1) most tumblers have a lot of air holes, which, combined with a south exposure, will encourage evaporation – you’ll need to keep adding water to keep it moist enough for decomposition; 2) one of the issues with tumblers is emptying them, it can be fairly messy, something your downstairs neighbors might not appreciate; 3) depending on how big your porch is, a tumbler might take up more space than you would like.

However, there are two options that can work well for you: vermicomposting (composting with worms) and Bokashi.  These can both be done indoors or outdoors. But with a southern exposure, you might be better off doing them inside, unless you have some good shade. Ideal conditions for Bokashi are 70 – 100 degrees F, and for worms it’s 55 – 79 degrees F soil temp. We offer classes in both of these styles of composting, but unfortunately, our classes are on hold pending some relief from the coronavirus restrictions.  Not to worry though because we also have information on both of these on our website.  See Bokashi under Composting Info in our website menu.  Also there is a wealth of information on both of these on the internet.

Thanks for your interest in composting and reducing waste. I strongly recommend attending our free classes once they start again.  Happy Composting!

Answer from JH: Thanks for your question. Sounds very frustrating. I encourage you to review all the resource material regarding methods of composting in the desert. As for specific gardening problems your local county extension office may be the best resource but I’ll offer a few suggestions. And you’ll likely hear from other master composters.

The odor created in an anaerobic environment is methane and it can be eliminated quickly by introducing air into the mix. Given the poor quality of your soil it might be more effective, certainly less frustrating, to trench compost by digging into the soil and burying the pine needles and “sludge”. Because the pine needles are hydrophobic, layering the wet sludge on top of them may facilitate their decomposition.

As for gardening I recommend raised beds that enable you to control the quality of growing medium. A fence around your raised beds will keep the deer away.

You are right about this high desert environment - it is harsh and experienced gardeners can have massive problems in any given year due to lack of rainfall, windy weather, etc. For this reason it is important to use cultivars that are known to thrive in this climate. That goes for ground covers as well.

Answer by JZ: Bravo, for taking on the composting and gardening challenge in your unique environment ! I will add my comments to what my colleague JH has already sent to you.

Pine needles are carbon(browns). They have a coating on them which seems to slow decomposition.

Adding blood meal or any other green, which is nitrogen should be helpful to the decomposition process. My experience is that it takes at least 18 months for needles to decompose, assuming appropriate management.

It is important that your setup is 50% moist in all seasons.  Patience and appropriate management are required. The bacterium E.coli is present in any manure.  If you are not using any manure in your setup, then it’s not a concern. If you do use manures, then it is suggested that you use well managed hot process composting method. See pages 5-7:

https://www.nmcomposters.org/_files/ugd/9ed432_2efaef3fb0404de2b74b646940ed51ac.pdf

A minimal odor closed bucket system which you may appreciate is the Bokashi method, described here: Bokashi | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

A useful website: Home | TeraGanix - Premium Quality Microbial-Based Products Online

You might also consider an in door / outdoor, no odor red wiggler worm composting setup.

Please see the list of compostable materials on page 3:

https://www.nmcomposters.org/_files/ugd/9ed432_2efaef3fb0404de2b74b646940ed51ac.pdf

Agree that well covered raised beds may be a useful option for you.  Best.  Compost on !

Answer by RR: You are indeed a trooper for your sustainable living efforts; my hat is off to you.

Pine needles have a coating that, until penetrated, prevents the microbes from breaking them down. If you have access to something that can break the needles, like a lawn mower or chipper/shredder, this will help the process get an easier start. Happy composting!

Answer by JZ:  Other colleagues may also respond to your questions.   Here are some of my thoughts.

The fact that you are composting is excellent.  Seems to me that you are doing a fine job, already.  So, keep up.

• Your worms may have needed a more protected space in the winter.  Increasing your worm operation would be beneficial. Their manure is superfine and a marketable product.

• Hot composting is most certainly what you should be and are doing.  A pile should be at 130F for 3 days to destroy pathogens.

After each turn the pile should be allowed / encouraged to be at 130 - 150F again for 3 days, etc..

If a pile is hotter than it needs to be,( above 150F) then turn it and blend in 1/3 more carbon material: leaves, shredded paper / cardboard…..

In the desert an open pile would best be covered with a tarp to keep moisture in and flying insects out. The pile(s) should be bulked as they are built - this improves

air circulation because moderates compaction of wet organic material and thus avoids anaerobic decomposition, the gases from which are odiferous.

• Citrus - it is the juice which is acidic.   The rind is oily, a bit slow to decompose, chop them before adding. The rinds & parts are “greens” so add some browns, eg. leaves to the blend.

If you dilute them by blending small amounts at at time, then no pH problems.  The decomposition (composting) process will bring the end product - humus to a neutral pH.

Additionally you could chop the orange parts, then dry them (quickly in NM sun). You could then store them dry, then add some as you wish at any time. Or you could bury them in a continuous trench, fresh or dry.

You and your brother are welcome to register, then attend any of our classes as often as you like. See Classes under Activities in our website menu.

Let us know if you need further assistance.    Keep up.    Best.

Answer by JZ: Your question will be received by a few of my colleagues, they may also have suggestions. Great that you are considering worm composting. Red worms do quite well here in all seasons, as long as common sense is practiced.

The subpod would be fine for year round use here.  I would mention that all of my worms are outdoors in covered containers in Rio Rancho. My method is a covered bucket sunk into the soil, AKA bucket in a hole. You may see it under Homemade Bins under Composting Info in our website menu.

The soil around the bucket insulates the contents from wide ambient air temperature changes, so worms are fine year round. I put about 1/2 - 1 cup of red wigglers in the bucket, then add chopped organic material as it becomes available - truly a “dump & run" setup. Any size container with a lid will be fine.  This container works well without worms too. The lid keeps moisture in and flying insects out. A well managed (aerated) composting setup will have little, if any odor - see bulking material in cold composting article below.

Another simple above ground (or below) setup is Plastic Container Bin described in our Homemade Bins pages. Any size container with a lid is fine.  I use 30 gallon plastic trash cans. Inexpensive and performs well for static ( no turn) composting.

You may add composting worms to any “cold” composting setup and they will be fine.  If any setup is in the summer sun, then you may cover it with a large piece of cardboard or 2 layers of shade fabric.

You would be well served by reading the menu on our website, which contains much useful information. 

Local composting worm sources are posted here on our website.  See Worm Sources under Resources in our website menu.

Register, then join us for a future class.  See Classes under Activities in our menu.

Hope that this is helpful.

Answer by JH: I would only add to JZ comments that after looking at the subpod - which is pretty darn cool and something I’ve never seen - I would be concerned that the worms might exit through the holes depending on which side of the device offers the best environment. But as a composting container it meets any desert composting requirements provided the holes are not exposed to air (which will evaporate the bin contents) and the lids are also tight fitting to prevent evaporation. If you go with this device please let us know how it works out.

From original questioner:  Thank you so much for the advice! The Subpod seems a bit pricey for what it is, so I think I might try the bucket in a hole system. Do you think this would work in a raised garden bed? Really appreciate your help!

Answer by JZ:  Great. Yes,  you may put the container in a raised bed.

Answer by JH:  Yes, JZ has good success with that containment method. No need to spend money you’d rather not. Putting the bucket in the raised bed is your choice. I personally wouldn’t want to take up that much square footage of the raised bed and would fill the bed to start with a good percentage of compost mixed in with the potting soil. Then I’d dress the bed in the Fall with the worm castings and do some sheet mulching over that - which is also described in our web resources. Sheet mulching is an easy and effective method to add organic matter to prepare beds for Spring planting with little effort. Best wishes!

Answer by JH:  You may receive other responses. Here’s mine. It sounds interesting but I’m unclear as to the ultimate purpose. To perhaps generate worm castings that will benefit the tomatoes? If the bin is filled with finished compost, the worms will need additional feedstock. The worms won’t really be needed if the bin is filled with potting mix. And you may also get better answers from the master gardener hotline at the Extension Office - they are tomato growers par excellence! Best wishes!

Answer by JZ:  Here are some thoughts in addition to JH's.  I’m thinking that you have a fine idea. Here’s my experience.

I have been caring for red wigglers in the same raised bed for many years in Rio Rancho.As you know red wigglers appreciate moisture and plenty of organic material, which I add regularly. The bed is well mulched on top.

Not clear as to your total growing medium blend in your container?  You might use 1/3 potting mix, 1/3 compost and 1/3 native soil - which will provide some grit for worm gizzard.  I top feed just as you have described. This has been quite successful for me and my worms.

As long as your container soil is moist & mulched at all times and you continue to add organic material for nutrition, then I think that your worms will work for you.

Agree too that your set up should be shaded in some fashion as this will decrease evaporation in the summer months.

Hope that this is helpful.   Let us know if you have questions.   Compost on.

Answer by JZ: It is fine that you are considering home composting.  We will help you as best we can.

A raised tumbler bin would be an OK choice if you would decrease insects / mice in your set up.   Actually insects are part of a healthy composting ecosystem and they usually stay within the system.

The Bokashi method would also be a choice for you as it is completely closed system, until the bucket contents are buried in the soil.  The Bokashi method is described on our website.  See Composting Info in our website menu. 

The website: Pro EM-1 Probiotic, EM-1, EM Bokashi Composting, EM-X Gold, Dr. Don's, Bokashi, EM, Effective Microorganisms, Soil Treatment, Digestive Health     May be useful.  Amazon.com sells the Bokashi EM1  mix.

An even simpler way is just to bury your scraps 12 - 18 “ deep in your garden soil.  I prefer a container in the soil, so that I do not have to dig each time that I make an addition.   See Homemade Bins under Composting Info on our website to see Bucket in a Hole container.

Actually a well managed composting setup is  not  odiferous.   You might enjoy reading our webpage about Odors Management, again under Composting Info.

All the best.

Answer by ME: Unfortunately, there is no municipal composting program in Albuquerque. Compost is sold locally through the ABQ water authority and a company called Soilutions also sells compost. If you feel you don't have enough organic material to compost, you can also compost on a smaller scale indoors using the vermicompost method with red wiggler worms. Let us know if you have any further questions. 

Answer by JZ: Here is my (opinion) response:
1. Be sure that you use composting worms – red wigglers.
2. An outdoor worm bin is an excellent idea. The worms are closer to their natural environment and under good conditions they will breed and also be making humus throughout the seasons.
3. It would be good to consider the location / orientation for your bin, e.g., in the summer sun would not be the best location. 85F is about the highest temp. you want in the bedding.
4. Outdoor bins partially submerged in soil are then well insulated for our climate both winter and summer.
5. Worms will breed under ideal conditions of moisture, at least 50%, adequate organic material to ingest and a temperature in the bedding material of about 65F. Under good conditions they can double their population in 3 months.
6. Composting worms ingest dead / decomposing organic material, so leaves, alpaca manure, and coffee are fine additions. I do not know if alpacas occasionally get vermicide medication? You might ask the owners. If so, manure with meds in it should be allowed to decompose in the sun for 3 months so that any meds would be biodegraded. Then you could add the manure to your bed.
7. The “speed” at which your worms will make humus will depend on the number of worms reference the amount of organic material that you feed them. So it would depend on the size of your bin and how many worms you add right at the beginning. One pound of composting worms (about 2 cups) can ingest about 1 / 2 lb. of organics in 24 hours. So you could do some calculating with that approximation. Then observe how the worms do the job.
8. All the organic material mentioned would be fine to feed them. Mixing all 3, then making sure that the mix is 50% moist should get you going in the right direction. In my opinion you could feed them just about any organic material that you have available. The rate at which all this is going to happen depend on managing the variables of moisture, bedding temperature, available food and the number of worms working for you. Just get started, the worms will teach you the rest.
Hope this is useful. Let us know if we can help.

Answer by RR:  Others of our organization , Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters Assn, may also answer your question. I do not know of any curbside composting programs in New Mexico – it does not mean there are none. However, by just Googling “Composting in Las Cruces” I came up with a place for you to donate your green waste in Las Cruces, if that is what you are trying to do, https://scswa.net/greenyard-waste-recycling/ 

Thanks for visiting our website and your interest in composting.

From original questioner: That is exactly what I have been trying to find. I will browse the website and see how it works. Thank you!

Answer by JZ: If you would like to see the bins which are described in the link, then you may visit them at the north end of the compound at the Bernalillo County Extension Office, 1510 Menaul Blvd. Ext. NW., open 9-4PM, M-F. The entrance to the compound is on Indian School Rd.

This 3 bin setup is called the New Zealand Box with three bays. I have attached one construction design: https://9ed43215-88d9-4458-a7ef-f39e4143cf0a.usrfiles.com/ugd/9ed432_7c66564d8073493baddb418306903579.docx

This setup may be seen at the AgriNature Center, 4920 Rio Grande Blvd. NW In Los Ranchos De Albuquerque: https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9ed432_5398d4f53b3740cfbef04f3b3202e8fb~mv2.jpg

Another method is to use raised bed blocks available at Lowes / Home Depot similar to what is pictured here:  https://static.wixstatic.com/media/9ed432_1e41cf3fd7e54e0fa448439e57b8b990~mv2.jpg

Hope that this is helpful.   Get back if you have questions.

Answer by JZ: If you are doing hot composting then a reasonable target temperature is 150F maintained for about 7-14 days, then turn it. If your pile initially did not reach that temp. then the issue may be one of carbon to nitrogen in your mix and / or adequate air flow. A mix of C:N may be 1:1 that is for every pound of brown you would add a pound of green material. The bottom of your (pile) operation should be 12″ of sticks, twigs, pine cone, corn stalks, cobs. This serves as an air intake medium also referred to as bulking. Additional bulking material should be added as the pile is built. The pile should be covered to reduce evaporation. If your pile has produced humus, then you could screen that out and recycle the un-decomposed material in another pile with the above C:N proportions as a simple guide. See our info. on  composting in the desert under Composting in our website's main menu. Hope that this is helpful. Write back if you have further questions.

Answer by JE: The cycle is complete if you a can no longer distinguish what was put into the pile except maybe some very large pieces such as wood chips, corn cobs pine cones. If you feel it isn’t there yet then you may want to just turn it over making sure it isn’t too dry by watering. If that doesn’t kick start it then you might want to combine it with another pile.

Answer by JZ:  Other colleagues may respond to your question. The life time tumbler series has a perforated pipe thru the center which allows for air inside the bin. Place the bin in the set upright position, then add a gallon of water.  Wherever the water flows out. Those are  your drain holes.  All is OK…. compost on.  You do not have to add any more holes. Let us know if you have questions.     Best.

Answer by JH:  It is necessary to have drainage at the bottom of your tumbler so that there won’t be standing water that will putrify. But here in the desert you don’t want holes in the tumbler that will allow the contents to dry out. Provided your tumbler allows for drainage it is good that your tumbler does not have holes. You may need to experiment as you compost to determine the best mix of compostables and added moisture to avoid overly moist or overly dry conditions.

Answer by WR: I don't think it would work to add the bran to regular compost because Bokashi is an anaerobic compost -- the Bokashi can is tightly sealed to keep out oxygen whereas a regular compost is an aerobic process -- oxygen is critical. There's no need to add any starter to a regular compost pile. If you have a good mixture of fresh and dry materials ("greens and browns") in your compost and keep the pile slightly moist and turn it occasionally to introduce oxygen, your compost should breakdown well without bad smells, etc. If the pile is at least 3 ft by 3 ft, it will probably heat up some which will speed up the process but, if it doesn't heat up, not to worry, it will eventual decompose anyway. I hope this helps.

Oh, one more thing. The fermented Bokashi itself can be added to your regular compost heap in lieu of burying it in the garden. It's a great source of fresh "green" matter for your regular heap. But this would be different than putting the inoculated bran itself into the pile.

Answer by JZ: What part of Albuquerque do you live in?  If you don’t live too far away I’ll gladly take your waste.  Or maybe I can find someone who lives near you.  Thanks for wanting to recycle your food waste.  So great not to put that into the landfill but to convert into something truly beneficial.

Answer by JH: Thanks for your question. Sounds very frustrating. I encourage you to review all the resource material regarding methods of composting in the desert. As for specific gardening problems your local county extension office may be the best resource but I’ll offer a few suggestions. And you’ll likely hear from other master composters.

The odor created in an anaerobic environment is methane and it can be eliminated quickly by introducing air into the mix. Given the poor quality of your soil it might be more effective, certainly less frustrating, to trench compost by digging into the soil and burying the pine needles and “sludge”. Because the pine needles are hydrophobic, layering the wet sludge on top of them may facilitate their decomposition.

As for gardening I recommend raised beds that enable you to control the quality of growing medium. A fence around your raised beds will keep the deer away.

You are right about this high desert environment - it is harsh and experienced gardeners can have massive problems in any given year due to lack of rainfall, windy weather, etc. For this reason it is important to use cultivars that are known to thrive in this climate. That goes for ground covers as well.

Answer by JZ: Bravo, for taking on the composting and gardening challenge in your unique environment! I will add my comments to what my colleague Jana has already sent to you.

Pine needles are carbon(browns). They have a coating on them which seems to slow decomposition. Adding blood meal or any other green, which is nitrogen should be helpful to the decomposition process. My experience is that it takes at least 18 months for needles to decompose, assuming appropriate management. It is important that your setup is 50% moist in all seasons.  Patience and appropriate management are required.

The bacterium E.coli is present in any manure.  If you are not using any manure in your setup, then it’s not a concern. If you do use manures, then it is suggested that you use well managed hot process composting method. See pages 5-7  of https://www.nmcomposters.org/_files/ugd/9ed432_2efaef3fb0404de2b74b646940ed51ac.pdf

A minimal odor closed bucket system which you may appreciate is the Bokashi method, described here: Bokashi | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

A useful website: Home | TeraGanix - Premium Quality Microbial-Based Products Online

You might also consider an indoor/outdoor, no odor red wiggler worm composting setup.

Please see the list of compostable materials on page 3: https://www.nmcomposters.org/_files/ugd/9ed432_2efaef3fb0404de2b74b646940ed51ac.pdf

Agree that well covered raised beds may be a useful option for you.  Best.  Compost on 

Answer by RR: You are indeed a trooper for your sustainable living efforts; my hat is off to you. Pine needles have a coating that, until penetrated, prevents the microbes from breaking them down. If you have access to something that can break the needles, like a lawn mower or chipper/shredder, this will help the process get an easier start. Happy composting!

Answer by JZ: Great to hear about your worm farm.   Other colleagues may also send answers to your question.

Most coffee shops will save up spent grounds and filters if you make arrangements with them. Starbucks stores put grounds in a bucket somewhere in main lobby.

Squeezed Juice Bar (https://squeezedjuicebars.com/) may save up pulp for you, if bring them 5 gallon buckets.   505.689.5766

Free horse manure: Pine Ridge Arabians, Corrales, NM, 505.263.4316

Sam McCarthy from Santa Fe is an experienced worm composter who might give you some advice.

Hope that this is helpful.  Let us know if you have more questions.

Answer by JZ: I could also mention that fallen leaves which are in abundance now –  shredded, are a worm bedding and nutrition source along with many shredded paper products. An excellent resource for you:  “The Worm Farmer’s Handbook” 2018 by Rhonda Sherman, available at amazon.com

Answer by JZ: I will offer some of my ideas.  Other colleagues may also respond.

Many Starbuck locations give away spent coffee grounds.- nitrogen

The squeezed juice bars in the city used to save up juicer left overs(nitrogen) if you call and ask. Squeezed Juice Bar.

Soon we will have an abundance of brown leaves - browns, which may be stored for future use.

Paper products (browns) are abundant, used napkins, cardboard,  paper towels - the school may use them in rest rooms.

You may dry and /or freeze kitchen scraps., then add at a later time.   Prunings from you garden may also be saved then added.

Hot composting synopsis in Composting in the Desert.

She could do a small hot setup as a demo, but most likely a small volume will not hold in the heat, but it would heat up with proper C:N mix.

This what comes to mind.    Hopefully helpful.

Answer by JH: Missy, you may receive a number of replies from our group. Here’s mine...
I don’t know where you would buy such items but that doesn’t seem necessary. I presume a sufficient supply could be collected in your neighborhood - ie dead leaves (C), grass clippings, garden debris, and kitchen scraps (N); local coffee shops - coffee grounds (N); neighborhood landscapers - grass clippings (N). Additionally if you have access to farm animal bedding (C) or manures (N) that could supply all that is needed. Just be sure if you are using manure that the animal wasn’t wormed within the past 3 months or otherwise your daughter will want to note that as a precaution, not to mention avoidance of feedstock containing herbicides. Local parks are a good source for bulking material such as pine cones and twigs.

I’m not sure how your daughter intends to manage this pile for the duration of the fair and I imagine you’ll help her think this through but if she is using an airtight container or any container that will inhibit good airflow, she’ll want to be vigilant about mixing the pile to avoid it going anaerobic and creating an objectionable odor.

Response from Questioner: These are all great ideas.  Someone will maintain it after science fair.  Probably me!  I'm hoping she can develop a Phase II to from it.  Right now, she's working to convert the thermal energy to mechanical energy via a Stirling engine and then converting the mechanical energy to electrical energy.  That last part still needs to be worked out.  But a Phase II to this project could be manipulating the operating parameters and studying the effects on efficiencies.  But first we need to build the compost pile!  Thanks again

Answer by WR: Unfortunately, most advice online, etc., is from people who don't live in a desert like we do here in New Mexico.  Fireplace ashes are quite alkaline. Here in New Mexico, our soil is very alkaline. I'd be hesitant to add them to compost here because we need less alkalinity, not more.  However, if you live somewhere where the soil is acidic, I think it would be fine to add a small quantity to your compost.  (Soil tends to be alkaline in dry climates where there is not a lot of rain to wash the high PH salts out of the soil.  Soil tends to be acidic in moist climates, places that are a lot greener than we are here in New Mexico.)

I am going to copy this to our compost-questions email list and you may hear other thoughts about this.  I'd also be interested in what others think about this.  I do know that finished compost usually has a good balanced PH so I may be wrong to completely avoid putting ashes into compost. Perhaps the composting process itself can bring balance here, especially if you don't put in huge quantities of ashes.  I hope others will know more about this than I do.

Answer by RR: Thanks for your interest in composting. As WR said, there is very little information on the internet dealing with composting in the high desert, which is very different from composting in more humid climes. Wynette's response is spot-on regarding composting ashes. I just cleaned out my fireplace, and as much as I dislike sending things to the landfill, I bagged up the ashes and put it in the trash barrel. As WR also said, putting small quantities of ashes in your compost would probably be alright since the biological composting process tends to neutralize the pH over time, but whatever you read, ashes are not a beneficial addition to your composting operation in New Mexico.

Answer by JZ: I agree with both colleagues WR and RR. If you want shredded, moist brown leaves, which would be primarily carbon, to decompose in a timely fashion then an appropriate addition would be greens/nitrogen - for example: fruit and veg scraps, green weeds without

seeds, hair, feathers, fur, coffee grounds (many shops will save them for you), brewery leftovers, herbicide free vegetarian animal manures and urine. A simple useful guide is to add 1 measure of greens (nitrogen) for every 2 measures of browns(carbon). Purchasable nitrogen containing products:  alfalfa pellets, feather meal, cotton seed meal, blood meal and fish emulsion fertilizer are available at farm supply stores.

In addition to adding greens, you might also inoculate the leaf pile with small amounts of finished compost to increase the microbial activity - about a cup of compost sprinkled on every 5 “ of leaf litter.

A very dynamic (fast) way to decompose leaves would be hot process composting which is described in this recently revised brochure, Composting in the Desert

Let us know if you need more info.  Compost on!  

Answer by JZ: Great to hear about your composting efforts. Other master composter colleagues may also respond to your question: "How to store 5 gallon buckets filled with organic material for decomposition?" Hopefully I understand your question.  If not, get back to me. Assuming that the buckets have drainage holes in the bottom and air intake holes in the side perimeter and coarse bulking material has been added as the bucket was filled, then you may store them outdoors on the soil, in a warm location at this time of year. When temperatures rise in summer, then put them in the shade. Elevate them above soil with pieces of wood underneath just as in the picture on the below web page. Check them regularly to be sure moisture is appropriate in the container(s).  Add water as necessary.

Similar to a trash can composter:

Homemade Bin Plastic Container | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

Answer by JZ: Others may also respond to your question. Here are some thoughts.
* The insects that you mention are attracted to the scents coming from the bin, so do not leave the bin uncovered, except of course when you adding organic material.
* Cover the top layer of the bin with about 3 inches of dry shredded paper or dry shredded leaves, then cut a piece of plastic to cover that addition, lightly cover the whole thing. Move this layer aside when you make an addition of organic material, then recover over the addition.
* This should decrease the ability of flying insects to get to the top layer of your bin and perceive the scents coming from it.
* Prior to the above you might also add some yellow sticky traps, available at nurseries, to the bin for a day or so. Trapping some of the insects will help decrease their reproduction.
* It may take some time for this situation to settle down, so be patient.

Answer by JE: I would also suggest put it outside with the lid off for 15 minutes, but no longer, when it is hot out to kill the current bugs. I put a timer on so I don’t forget, otherwise longer periods can kill your worm too. This usually does the trick for me.

Answer by RR: I have been going through my old Organic Gardening magazines, and I just came across a Tip from someone who had the same problem with fruit flies in and around her worm bin. While all of the answers from our Master Composters will help solve your problem, here’s another one for you to consider. This lady tossed a newly pruned rosemary branch over the top layer of her worm bin, and the fruit flies disappeared. Apparently, any of the pungent herbs will work. Good luck.

Answer by JZ: Great that you are getting ready for composting.  Thanks for a well organized email !

1. You have room for your setup to be a foot or so away from your house, but not against it. Trash can bins should be just right – size is your choice.

2. There is a fine, straightforward easy method of composting which follows natures way, that is static composting. This means that you do not necessarily have to turn or churn the ingredients. This method depends on convective airflow which is created in the pile by adding coarse bulking material as you build up: that would finger size, sticks, twigs, pine cones. This method is described in our brochure, Page 5: ‎docs.nmcomposters.org/composting-in-the-desert-2018.pdf

3. Your trash can would serve quite well. You sure can have more than one trash can side by side.  See Homemade Bins under Composting Info in our website menu. Your trash can(s) may be of a convenient size for you location. If you choose to do the static method in any container, then when it comes time to collect your finished compost, then you may scoop it out and use as needed or dump the contents onto a tarp. Undecomposed material including bulking  goes back in as you start to refill the container with organics. If you wish to churn material in your container you may use a garden fork spade. There are also “screw” type devices on the market which may be useful.  Just put it in your search engine, then you’ll see pics. and how they work.  I do not use them.

4. Green stuff (nitrogen) is low in winter months. All of your left over fruit & veg. scraps, coffee and tea are greens.  You may purchase some alfalfa meal / pellets (rabbit food) as a source of greens. Another option is to add 1/2 cup of fish emulsion fertilizer to a gallon of water, then sprinkle on you bin contents. You may add some soil if you like; not necessary to do so. See natural nitrogen sources and soil additive here: NMSU: Composting Additive  If you choose static composting you do not have to add greens & browns all at once, but may add them intermittently, as they become available — makes it very convenient.

5. Yes, pit or trench composting is another static method. You may bury organics covered with about 12” of soil. Avoid adding meat/dairy/fish as the scent might attract unwanted critters. A fine “dump &done” method in a covered bucket in a hole is shown in the Homemade Bins material. With this method you only have to dig once! and moisture is maintained with top cover. Worms may be added to this container and even to to your trash can bin(s).

6. Yes, Add a 6” layer of course bulking at the bottom of a composting container, this will help avoid compaction of ingredients and provide for convective air flow. Then continue to add 2” or more of bulking for every 5” of added organics.  Follow directions on Page 5 as above.

7.  Red wiggler worms are great composting partners. To get started, say in a trash can bin you would need about 1K of worm. They will be slow in winter, but still “working”, then speed up in spring. You may check out our local sources under Worm Sources under Resources in our website menu.

8  A possible reason that you have not had your contents decompose in the past composting attempts is low or no moisture in the bin. Maintain moisture in all seasons. Moisture in bin should be similar to the residual moisture in brewed coffee grounds – moist, but not dripping wet.

9. See Convective Airflow under Composting Info.  This shows how convective airflow (blue arrows) works in any container. If you bulk as you build, then you do not have turn at all.

Hope that this is helpful.   Let us know if you have questions.

From original questioner: Thanks for your reply and suggestions. I stopped by my neighbor’s house a couple days ago and I really like her composting setup. She uses 30-gal plastic garbage cans with lids. They cut the bottom off the can and insert it about 3-4” into the ground (so it has contact with dirt). They keep the lids on the cans. No muss, no fuss.

My question is: she said they don’t add “brown” matter or dirt; just kitchen scraps. Since I have both mulched leaves and excess potting soil (used), I would like to add it as part of the compost. I’m wondering, since the trash cans don’t have holes, if this is actually a form of anaerobic composting, and what the implications are. For instance, would it still work if I add layers of dirt and leaves?

Finally, I don’t have ready access to small sticks and am wondering if torn pieces of cardboard would work as well for the “bulking” material at the bottom of the pile.

Answer by JZ:

1. Trash can homemade bins do have holes as clearly pictured in the Homemade Bins materials. If you wish to cut a hole in the bottom, that would be your choice.

2.  The composting recipe is:  Mix greens + browns + air + moisture + time = finished product. Yes you may add leaves, potting soil just combine them with greens, eg. kitchen scraps, weeds without seeds. If you only add greens, then you’d have moist setup which might compact, then you’d have odors. The answer would be to add coarse bulking material as you build. You bulk throughout the pile as well as at the bottom.  Cardboard would not serve well as a bulking material. You could buy a bag of wood chips / bark at any nursery, which would be a fine bulking material.  Please read this brochure paying attention to coarse bulking on page 6: docs.nmcomposters.org/composting-in-the-desert-2018.pdf

3. If you are interested in an appropriate anaerobic method then consider the Bokashi bucket method described under Bokashi under Composting Info on our website menu.

4. You would get plenty of useful information if you would read pages from the homepage menu at:  nmcomposters.org

Answer by JZ: Great to hear about your composting efforts. Other colleagues may also respond to your question.

We do not usually do home visits as we are a small group of volunteers. We would need more information about your containers. If you could possibly send pictures of your bins it would help us to give you some feedback.

A frequent issue with high desert composting is evaporation of moisture, so make sure that your bin contents are about 50% moist in all seasons. 50% moisture would be similar to the residual moisture level of brewed coffee grounds - saturated, but not dripping.

You would be welcome to register for next composting basics class:

Classes | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

And / or you might look at our homemade compost bins for the desert:

Homemade Bins | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

And, of course our brochure on desert composting may be helpful:

Desert Composting | Bernalillo County Extension Master Composters | New Mexico

Be in touch if you have more questions.   Best.

Answer by JZ: It’s great to hear about your motivations to begin home composting. A tumbler bin is a useful choice of containers for occasional additions of organic materials. I would encourage you to read our webpage, Using Composter Tumbler Bins in the Dessert.

You may shop online for a variety of tumbler bins.  If you select a bin that suits you, then go to Youtube.com, put in the bin model which you like.  If you order online, then you will have to assemble the bin when it arrives.  There may be a video which shows how to assemble the bin which you have chosen.

As you are new to desert composting, I’ll suggest that you read these webpages:

NMSU: Bernalillo County Master Composters: Desert Composting Recommendations.

Also might be useful if you would register for one of our basic classes.

Hope that this is helpful.    Best.

Answer by JZ: Our website nmcomposters.org has several “handouts” on the main menu bar (under Resources) that might be helpful in making your choice and also address the particulars of composting in the desert. Plastic tumblers probably work best for a batch method (hot) of composting. A less controversial container is the manufactured plastic bin that has an opening on the top and one at the bottom to make for easy removal of finished product. This type of bin works well for dump-n-run (easy, cold) composting. Since you, too, are in the desert, in order to decrease evaporation from the bin, tape over about 50% of the holes, being sure that the bottom holes are open. A good quality bin costs about $100 new.

Since you mention kitchen scraps, another choice is the Bokashi bucket composting method, see: http://www.teraganix.com. Another option is to compost your kitchen scraps in a bin with composting worms. The bin could be kept indoors or put in a pit outdoors. Composting worms may be purchased on-line or from a local source.

Let us know if we can be of further help to you.

Answer by JH: Alan, here is a link for the composting training module on the El Paso County Master Gardeners website: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/video/compost.wmv. It is best that you refer to local sources due to climate differences. I am thinking El Paso is more humid and certainly hotter year round than Albuquerque which is high desert. Basically your kitchen scraps are the nitrogen source (greens) and you will need to add a carbon source (browns) such as fall leaves or wood chips along with water. Turning the tumbler as directed should keep the contents aerated and well mixed. If you find you have an odor, the mix is either too wet or is not getting enough air. If the mix is not breaking down, it is not a good ratio of nitrogen to carbon or is not heating up sufficiently. Without knowing more about your yard space and intentions I would not comment on other methods except that if you will not be able to find sufficient browns, you may want to try vermicomposting or the Bokashi method. And if you have not already purchased a tumbler, you might first want to investigate whether one of these methods will be better suited to your situation.

Answer by JZ: Great to hear of your generosity. Your question will be received by other master composter colleagues who may also respond. You did not mention your zip code, so I can’t make a specific location suggestion.

Some of my suggestions:

Seek the nearest community garden in your area, they often have a composting setup

or might use the clippings as a garden mulch.

Add them to your own composting setup.

Guide to Albuquerque's Community Gardens

Community Gardens

Let us know if you have questions.   Best.